Pruning Roses
July is the ideal month for pruning roses in most of Australia, preferably the end of July, and also the first week in August Our milder winters mean that roses are still carrying foliage and late flowers into June. August sees new growth beginning to burst through tightly furled buds. In late July roses are at maximum dormancy and the least frost damage can then be caused by pruning.
The Old World Roses
This group includes the Damasks, Gallicas, Albas, Centifolias and Moss, and Burnet roses.as well as the wild roses and their hybrids. These all flower on the previous season’s ripe wood. Pruning in winter results in the loss of the spring-summer flowers. Gardeners sometimes worry that their old world roses bloom little if at all. This is almost invariably because they have assiduously carried out winter pruning. If in doubt at all, just remove any dead or damaged branches and trim back from a path if necessary. If you wish to shape a bush, carry out pruning immediately after flowering so that the bush will have time to grow and ripen new wood before winter sets in. The old roses, unlike modern roses, have no need whatsoever to renew their framework and can manage very nicely, often for centuries, without the help of well intended gardeners.
Most of the species roses cultivated in gardens follow their flowering with a spectacular show of heps that last into early winter birds willing. Pruning will remove that spectacular autumn show and other than removing damaged branches they2 should be left to their own devices.
The Repeat Flowering Roses
This group are a mixed bag, but with the exception of the Rugosa roses they all contain China blood. China roses are naturally twiggy, building up into usually a neat rounded bush. A very light trim is all they ever need, usually in July and then only for shaping. They can be left to their own devices if you prefer as they have no need to regularly regenerate.
Bourbon roses are a natural cross between the China rose and the Damask rose. Left to themselves most Bourbons form elegant arching shrubs. Some gardeners prefer to prune them like Hybrid Teas which seems a pity given their natural grace. We prefer to prune the oldest branch completely out each year in July and perhaps add a light shaping. We are too snowed under to always get around to pruning Bourbons and it makes little difference at least for a couple of years. Try pinning the tips of the canes to the ground. Almost every lateral bud will break creating a beautiful sight in flower.
Tea roses almost never cease flowering. ‘Safrano’ is often totally weighed down in the middle of winter and the other varieties are still flowering endlessly in July. It becomes a problem to know when to prune. So we don’t bother. It is a good decision. Pruned Teas immmediately begin to reshoot with long water shoots that are very prone to breaking in strong spring westerly winds. Just remove any dead wood (rare) and let them grow into the magnificent flowering shrubs they truly are. As well they are virtually totally immune to the ills of rose flesh so like rugosas and Chinas we never have to bring out our organic sprays.
Noisette roses are the finest of all climbers, flowering abundantly and repeated well into winter, deliciously fragrant, and vigorous and very disease resistant. Like the tea roses they need little help from the gardener and resent hard pruning. Enjoy their intoxicating summery scent and showering flowers, grow the smaller ones as free standing shrubs, provide support for the taller growing ones such as the glorious 1830s large flowered deliciously fragrant double white Lamarque, and put away the pruners and sprays.
The surviving Polypoms like Perle D’Or and Cecile Brunner are tough as old boots despite their fairylike charm. Prune lightly to shape only in July. Forget sprays too.
The Hybrid Perpetuals are another story. They are opulent, glorious, and the group Victorian period gardeners referred to as cabbage roses. They need feeding with lots of compost, and well rotted manure too if you can get it. Like a bosomy opera singer they have very healthy appetites. In the days of carriage horses, street cleaners were often bribed to drop off a load of horse manure to a passionate rose grower and HPs were literally developed to thrive on this diet. Your reward for kind feeding will be huge bowl-like flowers, often filled with intoxicating fragrance that you can bury your face in. They are tall (usually around 1.5m) multi-stemmed upright growers. Cutting them back often results in a witch’s broom of branches at the top of the stem. We prefer to cut out the oldest stem in winter from year 3 onward. Like the Bourbons, HPs create a magnificent display if treated as the Victorians did, bending the tip of each stem to the ground and pinning it there for the season. In later years, bushes resemble an octopus en fete with every arm completely smothered in flowers. Magnificent specimens can be seen in the Bagatelle rose gardens in Paris. (For those wondering, the apical bud dominance is destroyed so that every bud along each stem breaks out into flowering shoots.)
Hybrid Musks should be left pretty much to themselves. They form graceful arching shrubs that flower for months. Just shape them. If wished, remove an old unproductive branch in winter as necessary and of course any dead or wind damaged branches.
Rugosa or Rosehip roses are virtually disease proof and need no sprays or for that matter pruning. Just remove any dead wood and as the bush grows older occasionally remove the oldest cane from the base in July. Or not. Rugosas are another rose group that wonder what we gardeners are continuously fussing about. With their carnation-and-rose fragrance and abundant beautiful flowers they are equally lovely as specimen shrubs or hedges. Single and semi-double varieties produce clusters of glowing red plum sized round haeps after every flowering flush throughout the season. The bush is usually covered in a mix of glowing heps and large flowers, and in autumn the foliage puts on a golden-amber display.
Hybrid Teas and Floribundas are the reason most gardeners believe roses need precision pruning. For a start, gardeners believed that the Hybrid Teas required the same diet as the Hybrid Perpetuals (they both emerged as classes in the mid-Victorian period). Hybrid Teas too richly fed rapidly develop sappy new growth that may look lush but is an open invitation to every aphid in the district. Add compost to the soil which allows for steady rather than rapid growth rather than manures, and supplement with seaweed or seaweed and fish foliar sprays which contain all the trace elements and incidentally inhibit fungal infections like blackspot due to the agar content. If Hybrid Teas are severely infected with blackspot, try spraying weekly with seaweed foliar liquid fertiliser and forget the poisonous sprays. Old yellowed leaves will fall quickly to be replaced by healthy new foliage. Always take away rose bush mulch at the end of the season amd renew. Fungal spores are always lurking in it to infect the next season’s leaves.
Hybrid Teas and Floribundas, even the strongest of them, need to be regularly rejuvenated to give of their best. Otherwise, as the old garden books put it, they became ‘unthrifty’. If they werenot such a beautiful class we would all have despaired of them long ago. They are pretty inbred (the great rose breeder Kordes did much to inject new vigour into these classes with the injection of wild rose blood) and fundamentally weaker than most of the older classes.If you have almost no time to spare in July/August, just prune these two classes. (They are very closely related, derived from the same bloodlines, but Floribundas differ in having flowers arranged in clusters rather than producing elegant single flowered stems. However these days the distinction between the two classes is becoming almost non-existent.
Walk around a bush and assess it before starting. The aim is to retain healthy younger growth, force new growth to rejuvenate the framework, and to let air and light into the bush. The old idea of pruning bushes ‘down to the socks’ is long gone. In fact nowadays it gives rosarians shudders. All that has been achieved is the loss of at least half the season’s flowers, a slow start to the season and increased probability of frost damage. you really can’t go werong if you follow these simple guidelines;
David Austin roses are mainly shrubs. They respond well to winter pruning, cutting back healthy branches by about a third and removing any damaged or unproductive wood. Treat the modern shrub roses in the same way.
Watershoots Versus Rootstock Shoots
Watershoots are strong fast growing, rather sappy, long and often reddish shoots that emerge from above the point at which the rose was budded. Many gardeners fall on these for fear of some alien growth and cut them off. On the contrary they are the rose’s new framework branches and the major reason we go to the trouble of winter pruning. Leave the poor things to get on with it if you want a rose to regenerate. When it has hardened off in mid summer to autumn it can be trimmed back by about a third if wished.
If a sappy sometimes reddish shoot appears from the base of a budded (grafted) plant or in the ground near to the trunk, it will be coming from the understock. Its growth is usually initiated by some form of damage. Roots that have been cut by digging, for instance, are sometimes stimulated to shoot from the cut roots of the rootstock onto which a rose has been budded. Cutting these off with secateurs is not the answer. Buried at the base of the shoot and to either side are two tiny dormant buds. If the rogue shoot is cut down it is replaced by two. Instead place the heel of your garden boot down on the base of the shoot so it is snapped out cleanly. Shoots coming from surrounding roots should be exposed by clearing the soil away and applying the same treatment. It may seem rough but it is the best method.
This is just a sample of the many articles that appeared in the 2009 editions of ‘The Green Ark’
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